Every time I say we’re going to Brazil, people assume Rio. Sometimes São Paulo, mix some Salvador da Bahía in there. Nobody ever says Espírito Santo, and honestly, that’s fine with me. (You know I am a sucker for undiscovered and off the beaten track destinations.) My husband has lived in Vila Velha since he was 20 years old and his family still lives there, so we end up there every few years. I’ve slowly started liking this city in the way you do with places you didn’t choose yourself. It’s a real city, half a million people (for Dutch standards, massive ;)) , busy, loud in the right ways, with a long Atlantic coastline and absolutely zero interest in being on anyone’s radar. But you might just find yourself there, and you might just find yourself wondering: what to do when I´m there. No worries, as always: I´ve got you covered! So let´s go discover Vila Velha in Espirito Santo, Brazil
Walk the boulevard and drink an unreasonable amount of coconut water
The orla is where local life plays out. Morning joggers, families, old men playing cards, vendors everywhere with fresh coconuts, and lots and lots of people ´de passeio´ (just strolling, see and be seen). You stop at one stall, drink, walk a bit, stop at the next. By the end you’ve had four and you don’t regret any of them. Agua de coco straight from the fruit in 30-degree heat is one of my most simple yet fulfilling pleasures.
Praia da Costa is the main stretch: long, lively, the city behind you and the Atlantic in front. Nobody is trying to sell you anything you didn’t ask for. It’s just people enjoying their (mostly) Sunday, and you get to be one of them. As always though, keep on eye on your stuff (especially in the weekends). But I do really love to come here, also with my little girl, around sunset. The heat is more bearable and the vibe is just right.
Borrow a bike and cycle the litoral
The city has a free public bike system. You pick one up, ride along the coast, drop it off. Simple. (I also use it to move between coworking spaces and the beach for example) .The seafront path goes on long enough to feel like you’ve actually covered some ground, and it’s flat, which matters more than you’d think once you’re out in the midday sun. Go in summer? Go early. Seriously.
Go to Ulé
This is my favourite part. Ulé is a neighbourhood a bit further along the coast where the surf is consistent (hence why I love it) and the crowds are manageable, nothing like what you’d deal with in more famous spots. If you (kite) surf, you’ll be happy. If you’re still figuring it out, the vibe is relaxed enough that it doesn’t matter. And there is some surfschools here as well (mainly portuguese though, so ask if they speak English if that is a requirement for you). Remember, if you are up for the real deal, check out my blog on surfing in Regencia.
And then, right there by the beach there’s also a massive pumptrack: berms, rollers, the works. Which means one of us can be in the water while the other is keeping a small person entertained on a little skateboard. Honestly ideal.
With kids
The orla keeps small children busy by itself: space, snacks, the sea. Praia da Sereia has calmer water, better for little ones. And if you want something slightly more structured, the Convento da Penha is a 16th-century monastery sitting on top of a hill 156 metres above the city. The views over the bay to Vitória are genuinely spectacular, and the climb gives everyone something to complain about together (whaha), which is its own kind of fun.
Where to get coffee and açaí
Vila Velha has a genuinely good café scene, which honestly caught me off guard the first time I visited.
- Gringo 2D is unlike any café I’ve been in. The whole interior is done in flat 2D illustrations, walls, furniture, everything, which sounds gimmicky but is actually just really well done. Great for photos, but also genuinely a nice place to sit and work. I’ve spent more than a few mornings here with a laptop and a good coffee, and it never gets old.
- Terrafé and Village Coffee are both solid spots if you want something a bit more straightforward, Village especially if you’re near the beach and need somewhere to settle in after a morning on the water. All three are the kind of places where nobody rushes you, the coffee is good, and you can actually get some work done if you need to.
- For açaí, Villa do Açaí is the move. You sit down, you order, it arrives in a bowl the size of a small planet, and you eat it. The place fills up with families and groups of friends, it has that easy, unhurried energy of somewhere people go not just for the food but for the excuse to sit together for a while. Go hungry. Don’t overthink the toppings, just say yes to whatever they suggest.
A few things worth knowing
- English will get you almost nowhere. Come with Portuguese or come with patience, ideally both. People are kind and will figure it out with you, but don’t expect menus in English.
- Eat the moqueca capixaba. It’s the local fish stew and it’s different from the Bahian version: lighter, more delicate. There are arguments about which is better. The correct answer is this one (my husband made me say this).
- It is definitely hot in summer (October-April). You know what to do.
There you go, have fun on your next trip and go discover Vila Velha in Espirito Santo, Brazil
